News

Merry Christmas to everyone from Intents Outdoors! Almost there. Time to get your camping tents and holiday plans sorted.

We make every effort to make sure that orders are dispatched as soon as possible but once they leave our hands, final delivery depends on the courier companies. Most orders should be delivered on time but couriers will be swamped and delays can be expected.  

We recommend allowing at least 2 extra working days to account for any potential delays. Better still, get orders in as soon as possible to make sure things get delivered ahead of time.

We will be working through the holiday period and pick up may be possible with prior confirmation.

As usual all orders will be shipped as soon as possible but we will not be able to dispatch orders on statutory holidays. The courier companies will be closed from Saturday 23^rd – Tuesday 26^th Dec. and for the New Year holiday from Dec 30^th – Jan 2^nd  

For deliveries needed before Christmas …

North Island services - For orders placed before 2pm we can do same day dispatch and it’s usually next working day delivery. We recommend placing orders by Tuesday 19^th Dec. to allow a couple more days in case of delay.  

South Island services - For orders placed before 2pm we can do same day dispatch and it’s usually takes 2 working days for delivery. We recommend placing orders by Monday 18th Dec. to allow a couple more days in case of delay.

*Rural services - Delivery to rural addresses requires an extra 1-2 working days on top of the times above.

Have a great Christmas and New Year!

What are the advantages of roof top tents? Are there any disadvantages? Here’s a quick look at the pros and cons to help you know if they're right for you. Then check out answers to a lot of common questions for people considering one of our Orson Roof Top Tents. 

What are the advantages of a roof top tent?

• Mobility – Great for a road trip. The perfect adventure on the road if you’re moving from place to place. Set up wherever your vehicle can go. Top choice for people who often head out for weekend trips, surfers moving from beach to beach, 4x4 enthusiasts and anyone looking for a bit of adventure and fun.
• Quick and easy set up – park and your tent can be set up in a few minutes. Another 10 minutes to set up the annex if required.
• Comfort – sleeping on a luxurious double mattress up off the ground for a great night’s sleep. And leave your bedding in the tent when you pack up.
• Durable – made of tougher, more durable and longer lasting weatherproof materials (like canvas, steel and aluminium tread plate) compared to ground tents which often focus on being light and portable.
• Off ground – like your own tree house - no mud or flooding, catches breezes for ventilation.
• Frees up storage space in vehicle – having the tent on the roof means you have more space in your vehicle for other gear.
• Security – up off the ground makes things less accessible to animals and people.
• Cheaper than RV – enjoy some of the comforts and mobility of an RV on a budget.

Are there any negative points to think about?

• You can’t drive off to the nearest shops if the tent is set up. If you’re planning on camping in one spot for a long time that’s not so convenient. Bring your bike.
• Getting the tent on and off the roof – a tent weighs about 60kg so will require 2 strong people to lift it up on and off. I leave mine on the vehicle for the whole camping season.
• Road handling – affects the centre of gravity on your vehicle and fuel efficiency but nothing too noticeable.
• Height – the height of the tent may make some parts difficult to access – I keep a small folding chair handy.
• Higher cost – more expensive than a ground tent.

What’s the verdict?

The pros far outweigh the cons. Having one on my roof, that's my opinion. We've made a lot of planned trips and spur of the moment overnighters when the sun has come out. A roof top tent will open you up to a whole lot of new adventures. The feedback from our customers has been ‘Absolutely love it!’ Roll on summer.

If you're still not sure about a roof top tent then contact us at Intents Outdoors and we'll do our best to help out with any info or advice you might need. 

Condensation can occur in any tent. But there are ways to prevent and manage condensation so that it doesn’t ruin your camping trip. To beat it we need to understand what it is and how it forms, and realise that there are ways to prevent it, minimise and manage it.

What is condensation?

The underside of your tent fly is wet! It’s covered in water. Is it waterproof? It might be a leaky seam but chances are that it’s condensation - the change of moisture in the air to the liquid that forms on cold surfaces like your tent fly.

Where does moisture inside the tent come from?

• Natural humidity in the air
• Breathing, we release moisture with each breath (anything from half a litre to two litres per day according to google)
• Wet clothes, boots and gear inside the tent or vestibule adds to moisture
• Cooking inside creates vapour from cooking fuel or steam from food
• Evaporation from exposed, damp ground or grass beneath the tent
• Pitching near a body of water brings greater humidity and colder temps at night.

How does condensation form?

The air inside a tent can become warm and humid from people’s body heat, moisture and lack of ventilation. On cold nights, temperatures can drop fairly quickly, and the tent fly will also be cold. When the warm air inside the tent hits the cold tent fabric, the moisture in the air condenses into a liquid and water forms on the cold surface of the inside of tent fly - much like the condensation that forms on the outside of a glass of cold water.

What kind of conditions bring on condensation?

• On clear, still, cold nights
• In wet rainy conditions, with no wind, and night time temperature drops
• After afternoon rain, with a clear, still night with low night temps

How do you prevent condensation?

• Ventilation. Ventilation. The key to preventing condensation is to ventilate the tent as much as possible. Allow the moisture to escape. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air. Open the vents, or entrance door, raise the fly edge off the ground. On cold nights it might be your natural instinct to seal the tent as much as possible to keep the warmth in and the cold out. Don’t! You’ll also be sealing in moisture and creating the perfect conditions for condensation.
• Pitch the end of the tent into the wind to enable increased airflow in and around the tent.
• Choose your campsite carefully. Avoid damp ground and low depressions which are often traps for moisture and humidity. Choose spots to benefit from any breezes.
• Use a footprint or plastic sheet as a groundsheet to create a barrier to the damp ground.
• Reduce the number of people in the tent. Not always possible, but consider that the more people in the tent the more moisture there will be.

Double wall tents

Double wall tents typically handle condensation better than single wall tents. They have an outer fly and inner wall to create a better insulating layer of air between the 2 walls reducing the build-up of condensation. The inner wall also lessens the chance of you and your gear coming into direct contact with any condensation on the fly.    

Single wall tents

Single wall tents are much lighter than double wall tents but new users often have problems dealing with condensation. See if ultralight and single wall tents are right for you. In a single wall tent any condensation is directly on the inside of your tent so remember to keep it well ventilated and ...

• As well as opening vents and doors, consider opening up any mesh entrances as this will improve ventilation a lot more.
• Use a microfiber cloth to wipe walls down.
• Try to avoid coming into direct contact with the walls.
• Dry your tent out before next use.
• Reduce number of people in the tent. A 2 person single wall tent faces greater challenges.
• Consider a sleeping bag with water resistant finish. Synthetic sleeping bags handle moisture better than down bags.

Condensation can be a pain, but knowing what causes condensation means you can take steps to reduce and manage it and focus on enjoying the great outdoors.   

Photo credit: Foter.com

Make your tent last longer with a bit of proper care and a few good habits. Tents are are made for the outdoors and get their fair share of dirt and exposure to the elements. Give them some love to get the best out of them. Here are some easy ways to extend the life and performance of your tent. 

Pitching

• For new tents, read the tent instructions carefully. Practice setting it up at home before your trip to familiarise yourself with the tent and know how to get the best out of it. Make sure you’ve got everything you need.
• Pick a good site to pitch your tent, not exposed to potential dangers like damaging winds or flooding.
• Clear the ground of any stones, sticks or anything that may puncture or tear the floor of your tent. You could also consider using a footprint to protect the tent floor.
• After pitching your tent check that everything is set up properly - fly taut, guy ropes and stakes secure.

Zippers

• Be careful with zippers. Treat them gently. If stuck, it’s probably a piece of fabric or thread caught in the zipper that can be carefully removed. Never force them - broken zippers are a real pain.
• If a tent fly is set too tight, zippers can be under real strain and zipping them back up can be almost impossible. Instead of forcing them, adjust tent stakes to loosen the fly a little and make zippers easier to close.
• Dry lubricants or wax are available for ‘sticky’ zippers.

Poles

• Most poles are shock corded so should fit into place easily. Don’t fool around with poles by whipping them around. This can cause small cracks or fractures unnoticeable at the time, but ending in failure when pressure is exerted in setting up or later in winds.
• End tips of aluminium and fibreglass pole sections are most easily damaged when not properly inserted into connecting hubs and ferrules. Connect the poles one section at time and make sure ends of the individual pole sections are fully inserted into hubs or metal ferrules before exerting pressure and bending the whole pole into place.
• Gently push shock corded tent poles through fabric pole sleeves when setting up or taking down a tent. Pulling poles will disconnect them. Tent fabric can get pinched between pole sections when reconnecting them inside the sleeves.
• Don’t force poles through tent sleeves. Check out why they’re stuck rather than forcing them through and possible tearing the tent fabric (speaking from experience).
• When disconnecting and packing up poles start in the middle so there is even tension along the shock cord.
• If aluminium poles are exposed to salt water, rinse them to prevent any possible corrosion.

Sun and heat

• Sunlight and UV rays are the ‘silent killer’ that will damage your tent fly – especially polyester and nylon fabrics. If you’re not using the tent, take it down. Don’t leave it up for extended periods in the sun as UV rays will degrade the fabric leaving it brittle and paper-like.
• Consider applying UV treatments to protect your tent depending on the fabric used.
• Stay away from open wood fires and burning embers. Some campers use small controlled cooking stoves in vestibules (subject to manufacturer recommendations) but remember that some tent fabrics can melt or, if not fire resistant, be flammable.

Packing up

• Pack your tent dry. If it’s raining, dry it out when you get home.
• Condensation can occur even on fine days, so remember that the underside of the fly or floor may be damp. For smaller tents before packing consider removing the fly to dry it out, or for freestanding tents turning them upside down to dry out tent floors.
• Clean any mud of pole ends and stakes before packing.
• Fold the tent fly into a rectangular shape about the width of the carry bag. Place the pole and stake bags on the fly, roll the fly around the poles and place in the bag.

Cleaning

• When out camping leave muddy, dirty boots and shoes outside the tent to minimise dirt inside. For food spills, carefully wipe off any spills as they happen.
• When you get back home, for small spots of dirt try wiping it off with a damp cloth, or using a sponge and water to carefully remove the dirt.
• If you got caught out in a mud bath try using the garden hose to spray off as much mud as possible.
• For heavier duty cleaning, pitch the tent at home and use warm water and a non-detergent soap (Do not use detergents, bleaches, dishwashing liquids etc. as these damage or remove the coatings). Gently wash off the dirt, then rinse and leave pitched to dry before packing away.
• Do not throw you tent into the washing machine – it will destroy your tent.

Storage

• Make sure that the tent is dry and clean before packing it away. When you get home from a trip hang up your tent in the garage or shaded spot to air and dry it out completely. Any moisture will lead to mildew and mould which smells bad and can stain and weaken the fabric and waterproof coatings.
• Store your tent in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Storing in damp conditions will lead to mould. Exposure to direct sunlight will lead to the breakdown and weakening of the fabric and coatings.
• Store it in an oversized breathable bag. Don’t store it tightly rolled and compressed in the tent carry bag.
• Roll the tent fly rather than fold it. This prevents permanent creases and ‘cracks’ forming in the fabric and coatings.

 At Intents Outdoors we believe you should protect your investment in your tent. Keep your tent clean and dry, out of the sun and take care when setting up and you’ll have a happy tent. And that goes a long way to making a happy camper.  

Tents specifications and coatings can be confusing. What is Denier, Thread count and Hydrostatic Head? Understanding tent specifications and terms will help you choose the best tent for your needs.

When looking at tents for sale reputable brands and retailers should provide tent fabric specs so you can work out a tent’s performance capabilities and suitability to handle different conditions. Here's an introduction to different tent fabric specifications. For more on fabrics check out fabric pros and cons. 

What is Denier?

Denier (D) is the unit measuring the weight and thickness of the individual threads used in the fabric. Fabric with a higher Denier will be thicker, stronger and more durable than the same fabric with a lower Denier – 40D Nylon will be stronger than 15D Nylon and 150D Polyester stronger than 75D Polyester. Remember that different fabrics have different strengths. Lower Denier is common in ultralight nylon tents and tarps where low weight is paramount. Polyester camping tents typically have higher 68D, 75D, 150D fabrics, while for camping and event shelters something around 150D would be recommended to deal with the greater stresses and longer exposure to the sun and elements.

What is Thread count?

The thread count (T) is the number of threads used horizontally and vertically per square inch of fabric ... 210T means a total of 210 threads. A higher thread count represents a greater density and tighter weave in the fabric. For this reason you will often find lower Denier fabrics (with a ‘thinner’ thread) have a higher thread count.

What is Ripstop?

Ripstop tent fabrics are those with a special reinforcement to increase resistance to tearing and ripping. When weaving, a stronger thread is used at regular intervals to form a crosshatching, grid pattern visible in the fabric. This improves strength of the fabric and makes any tears or holes less likely to spread and become bigger.

What is gsm?

GSM (grams per square meter), refers to the weight in grams of one square meter of raw woven canvas or polycotton canvas. (Also still measured in ounces per square yard as well.) A higher gsm means a higher fabric weight and thickness. Most tents range from around 280gsm to 380gsm with more modern polycotton canvas closer to the lower end.

What are fabric coatings?

Chemical coatings are applied to tent fabrics to increase their performance, especially resistance to water. 

What is a silicone coating? What is silnylon?

A silicone coating is usually applied to nylon, hence silnylon. The coating ‘permeates’ the nylon fabric creating a stronger silicon ‘reinforced’, waterproof nylon fabric with better stretch and tear strength. Silicone repels water and so it’s easy to shake off excess water and dries quickly. On the down side silicone coatings are more expensive, stop ‘breathing’ in the fabric which may lead to greater condensation, and result in a very slick and slippery surface meaning that tent seams cannot be taped - Silnylon seams require manual application of a liquid seam sealant. And note that brand logos cannot be printed onto silicone coatings. 

What is a Polyurethane (PU) coating?

Polyurethane or PU coatings applied to polyester and nylon fabrics are more like a layer that sticks to the surface of the tent fabric. It creates a waterproof barrier, is more affordable, has greater breathability than silicone and has a surface which allows the application of tape on tent seams. But it doesn’t reinforce a fabric’s strength in the same way as silicone, requires some care to be kept clean and dry for storage, and will affected by UV exposure and break down over time. Branding can be printed directly onto PU coatings.

What is a SIL/PU coating?

Some tent fabrics have a silicone coating on the outer side and PU coating on the inner side as a compromise, balancing the benefits of both coatings and allowing tape to be applied to seams making tents ‘ready to go’ for end users. Branding will be printed on the underside of the fabric but not on the outer side.

Hydrostatic Head (HH), water column or ‘waterproof’ ratings (measured in mm)

Polyester and nylon fabrics are not waterproof and so silicone or PU coatings are applied to give waterproof properties. The amount of water that they can ‘hold out’ is tested using a high column of water which is measured in mm. Ratings range from 800mm up to a max of 10,000mm with ratings of 1500mm and higher generally considered ‘waterproof’. See our article on how to choose a waterproof tent for a better explanation of waterproof tents and ratings. DCF (Cuben fiber) is waterproof and canvas has a natural waterproof performance so these typically do not have mm ratings.

What other fabric coatings are there?

A number of other coatings can be applied to tent fabrics to improve UV resistance, water resistance (allowing water to bead and roll off), rot and mildew resistance and to add fire retardant properties to fabrics.

What is Oxford?

Oxford is a different type of weave which provides better strength and durability than standard plain weaves. Often used for heavier duty fabrics.

What to look for in your next tent fabric specs?

Generally, the higher the denier count the stronger and heavier the fabric will be, and the higher the mm rating the more ‘waterproof’ it will be. Have a look at the following ...

1. 75D 185T Polyester PU1000mm – a standard polyester tent fabric suitable for camping tents but has a lower waterproof rating of 1000mm suitable for light rain only so probably more suitable for casual camping in fairly good conditions.
2. 20D 330T Ripstop Nylon Sil/PU 3000mm – a light 20 Denier nylon fabric suitable for ultralight tents, ripstop so has better tear resistance, silicone coating topside and polyurethane coating underside so can have taped seams, good waterproof rating at 3000mm should be able to deal with most rain.
3. 380gsm Polycotton Ripstop – a heavier, durable modified polyester and canvas blend suitable for swags, and family cabin tents reinforced with Ripstop ‘grid’ threads, it's canvas so has natural waterproof properties
4. 150D Oxford Polyester PU 3000mm UV – a heavier, thicker polyester with a stronger weave, more suitable to event shelters and tent floors, waterproof with 3000mm HH rating and coated for greater resistance to UV.

As well as identifying your preferred tent design, you’ll need a tent fabric with the right balance of strength, durability, waterproofness, weight and budget to meet your needs. Knowing more about tent specifications will help you get the right tent. At Intents Outdoors we put careful consideration into these factors to create tents fit for purpose with the right combination of specs and features at affordable price points.

Polyester, Silnylon, DCF or Cuben fiber, Polycotton canvas and PE? Understanding more about tent fabrics will help you make the right choice when looking at tents for sale. It can be confusing with so many different fabrics, coatings and specs. Below are some pros and cons of the most common tent fabrics and what they are most suitable for. Or check out our article for more on tent fabric specs and coatings 

Polyester

• Pros – good strength, stretch, and tear resistance, easily maintained, reasonable weight, reasonable cost, good pack size, good mildew resistance, waterproof with applied coatings
• Cons – not great UV resistance or heat resistance, low breathability leads to condensation, has a limited lifespan
• Great for – small and large dome tents, family camping tents and shelters, camping tarps

Polyester is the most common fabric used in tents. It’s a popular choice as it does well in various weather conditions and is affordable. Polyester doesn’t change shape when wet, is waterproof when coated, performs ok in sunlight, is more durable than nylon, is of a reasonable weight and can pack down fairly small.

Nylon

• Pros – very light weight, good strength, waterproof with applied coatings, easily maintained, low packed volume
• Cons – higher cost, stretches when wet, susceptible to UV damage, not breathable, can tear
• Great for – ultralight and light weight tents, tarps

Nylon is generally stronger and lighter than polyester but can also tear easily (be sure to get Ripstop fabric) so suitable for smaller ultralight and light weight tents and not bigger family sized tents. The fabric must be coated with Silicone (hence silnylon) and/or PU to make nylon waterproof. Nylon can be weakened by UV exposure so limit time in direct sunlight if possible.

Dyneema Composite Fiber (DCF) / formerly Cuben Fiber

• Pros – extremely light, extremely strong, waterproof, great UV, tear and chemical resistance
• Cons – very expensive, doesn’t stuff (needs to be folded), does not stretch, low heat resistance
• Great for - ultralight tents, tarps

DCF is the ultimate light weight tent fabric, Dyneema fibres (15x stronger than steel of same weight) enclosed in a polyester film. It’s the lightest, strongest, and most durable material but unfortunately also by far the most expensive. Weighs less than half of silnylon but costs four times as much, is waterproof and doesn’t absorb water. But there is no ‘give’ in DCF and care is needed when pitching as it won’t stretch into shape and may puncture. Not heat resistant so don’t cook under it. The ‘miracle fabric’ of ultralight lovers – at a price.

Cotton Canvas

• Pros – breathable, moisture absorbent, less condensation, good insulation - cool in summer, warm in winter, long lasting, high UV resistance
• Cons – expensive, heavy, bulky, mildew susceptibility, needs to be weathered first, requires maintenance   
• Great for – cabin family style tents, glamping, bell tents, longer term camping, swags

Cotton canvas is the original tent fabric your grandad probably used - thick, durable, breathable, expands and swells when wet to seal off any holes. May leak the first time in rain as the swelling process takes place so needs to be weathered/seasoned before being used. Canvas is heavy and bulky and requires a lot of effort pitching and transporting.

Polycotton Canvas

• Pros – better strength and mildew resistance than cotton canvas, better resistance to UV and heat than polyester, breathable – less moisture and condensation, longer lifespan and better weight than cotton canvas
• Cons – high cost, care needed for maintenance, mildew susceptibility, bulky
• Great for – family tents, cabins, roof top tents, swags, glamping tents 

Polycotton is a blend of cotton canvas and polyester that makes a lighter, stronger canvas. It can be uncoated but is usually treated with coatings to repel water and improve mould and mildew resistance. Its durability, breathability and weather resistance make it great for family camping tents, swags and roof top tents.

PE (Polyethelene)

• Pros – tough, durable, waterproof, inexpensive
• Cons – bulky, noisy, non-breathable
• Great for – dome and family tent floors, tarps.

Usually black or grey, a thick, tough, durable plastic-like material used for tarps and tent floors. Ideal for floors as its affordable, hard-wearing, waterproof and easily cleaned.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)

• Pros – strong and durable, good UV resistance
• Cons – heavy and bulky
• Great for – heavy duty tent floors, heavy duty tarps, awnings and tent roof covers

Heavy duty PVC is used to meet the most rugged demands of the elements and environment with people constantly walking on it. Tough and durable but heavy and bulky. Commonly used in conjunction with canvas tents.

Mesh

Mesh netting of varying strengths, thicknesses for inner tent walls to keep insects out. Windows and doors often have a mesh layer that is light weight and offers protection from bugs, better ventilation and reduces internal condensation.

Be aware that performance and quality of these fabrics can vary depending on the specifications and coatings applied. If you have any questions then just contact us at Intents Outdoors and we’ll do our best help out.

Here’s a checklist of things to consider when looking at ultralight tents for sale. With new designs, fabrics and materials tents are becoming lighter and more specialised. Ultralight tents have very low weights and small packed sizes, great for hikers, trampers, backpackers, bikepackers and minimalists who are mobile and like to go light! But remember that with these priorities, they differ from heavier camping tents and ultralights may not be suitable for everyone. Make sure know what is important to you and what you will be using your tent for.

1. What does it weigh?

Weight is one of the key things people look at in their search for an ultralight tent. Generally, a tent weighing less than 1.5kg is considered ultralight and some go lower than 500g. Know that stated weights are often ‘trail’ or ‘minimum’ weights which typically only include the tent and poles. ‘Packed’ weights include tent, poles, stakes, rope, carry bag. Think about how much you feel comfortable carrying.

2. What is the packed size?

A small packed size is great when you’re hiking for days on end. Check out a tent’s packed dimensions for something that you’re happy with, can be compressed and packs down to easily fit into your pack. 

3. What’s the internal size?

To achieve low weight and packed size, the interior size and space in ultralight tents can be tight. Most ultralight tents are designed for 1 or 2 person capacity. Check that the measurements work for your needs. Consider your height, size and if you are a restless sleeper who rolls around a lot. Is there enough head room to sit up or get changed? Ideally, you don’t want to be touching any walls or the ceiling. Apart from sleeping, will you be spending long periods of time in your tent?

4. Is it a multi pitch tent? How is it pitched?

Some ultralight tents can be set up in a variety of ways - fly only, fly and footprint, inner only, fly with inner – making them adaptable to different conditions. For some trips just a fly and floor might be all you need so consider the options and what will be useful. And check out how the tent is pitched. Is it easy to pitch? And if it’s in the dark or raining? Is it free standing or must be staked out? If it must be staked out to stand it may take a little practice to get it set up correctly.  

5. What kind of poles are used?

Some tents come with all the poles needed to pitch the tent. To reduce weight many ultralight tents require the use of adjustable trekking poles - or can be set up with an optional designated pole. Most poles are aluminium but lighter carbon poles are also available.

6. Is it a single wall or double wall tent?

Ultralight tent designs look for ways to minimise weight and so the lightest tents often only have one wall. But consider that single wall tents use one layer of fabric and any condensation that may occur will then be sitting ‘inside’ the tent (see next question). Double wall tents with an outer fly and an inner mesh tent with floor are generally drier with more ventilation and the inner acting as a second barrier.    

7. Is it well ventilated and does it handle condensation?

Single wall tents often have less mesh and ventilation options, and are great in dry warm conditions. In cold, humid conditions condensation can occur in any tent and good ventilation is key to preventing its build-up. Remember in single wall tents that any condensation forming on the underside of the fly is directly inside the tent. Be aware of this and make sure that there are good options for ventilation and airflow and be prepared to use them in cold, still, humid weather. A double wall tent with an outer fly and mesh wall inner will generally allow for better airflow and management of condensation.

8. Is it waterproof and are the seams sealed?

Check that the fly and floor are waterproof. Generally anything rated above 1500mm is waterproof but you will probably want higher ratings for the floor. Check how many seasons the tent is rated for – most ultralights are rated 2 to 3 seasons. Make sure that the tent will provide adequate protection from the elements when you need it.

Some ultralight tents are made using silnylon (nylon with silicone coatings) which has a very ‘slippery’ surface that will not hold taped seams. A seam sealant must be manually applied by hand (yours probably) to ensure that the seams are waterproof. Nylon and polyester seams with PU coatings can be taped. Dyneema (cuben fibre) does not require seam sealing.

9. Is it durable?

To reduce weight, ultralight tents are made using lighter weight, thinner fabrics and materials that may not be as durable and hardy as heavier camping tents. But with proper care and use they can be long lasting. If you’re hard on your gear then you might be better off looking at something a little heavier.

10. What kind of fabric is it made from?

Dyneema (cuben fibre) is very light and extremely strong but also extremely expensive. Nylon is a great lightweight fabric, not too expensive but has pros and cons. Polyester is affordable but heavier so not often found in ultralight tents. Check out our info on tent fabrics.

11. Does it have a footprint?

Sharp stick and stones can puncture floors. Ultralight tent floors are made of lighter fabrics so you may want to use a footprint that will offer more protection and prolong the life of your tent. Footprints are also handy for use with the outer fly only.

12. What about overall design?

Check that the design of the tent suits your needs and can do the job you need it to do. Does the tent allow for easy access? For 2 person tents, 2 doors make life much easier when getting in and out. Also see that the vestibules are big enough for your gear. Are there extras like storage pockets, ceiling hooks, etc. Are stakes and rope included and if so are they ok for the job? You may want to change them out for gear that you prefer.

13. How much does it cost?

Ultralight tents can vary enormously in price with high end Dyneema ultralights retailing for around NZ$1000. But you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a good ultralight tent … just make sure that the design, quality of materials and work, and durability of the tent is suitable for your needs. 

14. Is an ultralight tent right for me?

Remember that it’s important to have a reliable tent that does what it should and not put you in danger. What are the priorities for you and your next adventure? Consider weight, comfort, protection, durability, cost and if an ultralight tent, while looking good on paper, is really suitable. But also know that if you’re looking for the convenience and freedom of low weight and can handle some of the sacrifices, then an ultralight tent could be the perfect tent for your next adventure.

If you have any questions about ultralight tents don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at Intents Outdoors.

Is my vehicle ok for a roof top tent? Are roof top tents easy to use? How do roof top tents work? ... Check out our answers here to commonly asked questions about roof top tents.

A roof top tent is perfect for a weekend away or an extended road trip. You’ll discover freedom, comfort, convenience, and you’ll be able to focus on the fun and adventure.

What makes Orson roof top tents different to others on the market?

Orson roof top tents have been tested in NZ conditions and customised and improved to create a top quality product different from standard tents available in the market. We have been working closely with the suppliers and spent many days at the factory to develop the product we want.

We have the only roof top tents available in NZ with a tough aluminium tread plate base for long lasting durability to protect your tent from damage. We have made sure that Orson roof top tents use high quality, durable high spec materials like 280gsm Ripstop Poly Cotton Canvas and 420D Oxford Polyester PU3000mm rainfly, heavy duty durable PVC travel cover and YKK zips and loads of extra accessories.     

Is my vehicle suitable for a roof top tent?

Roof top tents can be fitted to most vehicles (check the roof weight limits to be sure). There are rental companies hiring them out on top of 1600cc station wagons. Well suited to SUVs, 4x4s, utes and adapted trailers.

How high does the vehicle have to be?

Any height is fine for a standard roof top tent – an adjustable telescopic ladder included that can reach a maximum height of 2.3m. If purchasing a roof top tent with an annex, the annex is designed to suit heights of 180cm to 205cm. For vehicles lower than this, the annex is still usable but there will be some loose sagging in the walls.     

Does a roof top tent affect driving performance?

Having a roof top tent up top will alter your vehicle's center of gravity so you'll have to be a bit more careful driving around corners, but apart from that there are no major differences. I've been driving around with a roof top tent for a year and pretty much forget that it's even there.   

How easy is it to get a roof top tent on and off a vehicle?

Roof top tents typically weigh between 50-60kg so will require 2 people to lift it over the roof of your vehicle and onto the roof racks. Once on the roof it’ll you’ll need to secure the bolts the tent to the roof racks.

What do I need to fit a roof top tent to my vehicle roof?

You will need suitable roof racks on your vehicle. Orson roof top tents come with base mounting tracks affixed and hardware needed to secure the tent to the racks. Mounting plates and bolts are included to fit 4-8cm width roof rack bars at four points.

What kind of roof racks are needed?

Most heavy duty and commercial roof racks are fine. The roof top tents with ladder weigh about 60-65kg and a roof top tent can be fitted to cross bars that use fixed point, vehicle specific track, or gutter mount legs. A dynamic (in motion) load rating of at least 75kg is recommended when driving. If driving off road, a 30% reduction should be applied to the rating. In a static (stationary) mode, the total weight limit is much higher – check on your vehicle and rack recommendations.

What set up do I need for the roof racks?

Orson roof top tents are set to open to the side of the vehicle as this allows free access to the boot or rear of your vehicle. Generally your racks should be approx. 80-100cm apart and the rack mounting points approx. 80-100cm apart as well. We also have mounting tracks that can enable the roof top tent to be opened towards the rear is required.

Is there a warranty?

All purchases are covered by a 12 month warranty and the Consumer Guarantees Act against defects in manufacturing or materials. As is common practice with most camping goods retailers in NZ there is no warranty for storm or wind damage, normal wear and tear, UV degradation, accident or misuse.

Are Orson roof top tents waterproof? How do they handle wind?

Orson roof top tents have been designed to handle NZ’s changeable weather. A 3000mm waterproof rainfly over the top and 280gsm Polycotton canvas with taped seams will keep rain out. To handle winds we have added an optional stabiliser bar and guy ropes and pegs are included to stop the tent from flapping in the wind.

Do roof top tents get condensation?

In the ‘right’ combination of cold, still, humid conditions all tents can suffer from condensation – to prevent and minimise condensation maintaining good airflow and ventilation is key.  

How long does it take to set up and pack away an Orson roof top tent?

Setting up the roof top tent takes a few minutes – unzip the travel cover, roll and secure, unfold the tent base, set the ladder and secure the entrance awning spreader bar, set window covers and that’s about it. Packing away takes a few minutes longer.    

Are they comfortable? Can I leave bedding in the tent when packing it away?

Orson roof top tents have plenty of room inside the tent for 2 people measuring 2.4m long x 1.4m wide x 1.15m. There’s a comfy 6.5cm high density foam mattress with plush top and tough polyester base cover and bedding can be left in the tent when packing away. Also comes with storage pockets and handy gear loft to keep clothing and bits and pieces out of the way.

Can I pack the tent away when wet?

It is not recommended to pack any tent away when wet but on rainy days you may have no choice. The tent can be packed away when wet but it should be opened up and dried out as soon as possible to prevent mould and damage.

What if I need replacement parts?

Most of the roof top tent parts can be pretty easily replaced and we have a full range of replacement parts available should the need arise.

Can the roof top tents be shipped? Or picked up?

We can ship Orson roof top tents around NZ. Check with us for the rates which depend on the delivery location. No problem to pick up one of the roof top tents and we can help out with a demonstration and installation if required.

Got any other questions? Need more info?

If you’d like to know more about Orson roof top tents then just flick us a quick message here or give us a call at (+61) 0210 405991 Cheers!

It's no fun going to bed feeling cold and miserable when you’re out in the wilderness. In New Zealand the weather can be changeable and throughout the year temperatures can get chilly overnight. Here are some simple tips to help you warm up and stay warm when camping out in the cold.

Have the right gear

Warm, dry clothes - Make sure you wear dry clothes when going to sleep – if possible change out of dirty, sweaty, damp clothing. Warm insulating clothes like synthetics and wool maintain your body heat – generally adding extra layers will make you warmer (don’t overdo it though).  Wear a good pair of socks to prevent cold feet and wear a warm hat as a lot of heat is lost through your head. 

A dry sleeping bag - Have a dry sleeping bag. A damp sleeping bag is uncomfortable and draws heat from your body. Moisture reduces loft and the insulating effect in down sleeping bags but not so much in synthetic sleeping bags. Dry your sleeping bag out during the day if possible and keep your bag dry in a waterproof stuff sack when on the move.

A suitable sleeping bag - Having a warm sleeping bag that can handle the conditions is really important. Sleeping bags usually have temperature ratings showing comfort limit (for women), lower limit (for men), and extreme limit (to prevent hypothermia). Choose a bag that will has temperature ratings 5 to 10 degrees Celsius lower than the temperature you expect to be using it in. Having a sleeping bag that feels too warm is easier to deal with than having a bag that leaves you shivering. 

A sleeping pad / mat with an appropriate R-value - Sleeping directly on cold ground sucks heat out of your body and will make you feel cold. When the temperature drops, having a proper insulation between your body and the ground is crucial. There are lots of foam sleeping mat, self-inflating pad and inflatable air pad options available. These come with and R rating of 1-10, the higher the number the more insulation and warner they will be. Generally 0-2 is ok for warm temps, 2-4 for most 3 season camping, 4-6 for temperatures around freezing and higher than that is suitable for snow. Many people use a combination of closed cell foam mat and inflatable air pad to increase insulation and the combined R value. If you are on your pad but still feeling cold you can also use spare clothing, blankets etc. to create another layer between you and the ground to improve insulation and warmth. 

A sleeping bag liner – one of these offers more insulation and can add a few degrees to the warmth of your sleeping bag.  

A 3-4 or 4 season tent – Check out tents for sale in NZ rated 3-4 season or 4 season which are designed for use during the harsher, colder winter months. They typically have less mesh and more fabric on the inner walls to help with warmth retention inside the tent. They may also have flaps or skirts on the outer fly that can block out cold winds. But avoid the temptation of sealing the tent up completely - ventilation is needed to prevent excessive condensation and moisture build up.  

Time for bed

Warm your body up before you get into your sleeping bag - Try a few star jumps or jumping jacks or exercises to warm up the body and get into your sleeping bag nice and warm (but don’t overdo it to the point of sweating). Warmth comes from within, and any insulation from a sleeping bag will keep it there. You can also do a few sit ups in your bag to help warm yourself up and get the blood flowing again.

Eat just before you go to bed - Keep your body’s metabolism working for as long as possible by eating dinner or a snack just before going to bed. This will keep your body warmer for longer and keep you asleep for longer. Something high in protein and fat will keep your metabolism working longer.

Stay hydrated but not too much - Keep your body running smoothly by making sure you’re hydrated. You’re less likely to feel thirsty in the cold weather but too much water before bed may mean having to go out into the cold for bathroom breaks. And a full bladder also requires more energy from your body to keep that liquid warm. Go to the bathroom before bed.  

A hot water bottle - Consider taking a bottle of hot water to bed to warm up the cold spots and keep you warm.

During the night

Sleep snug in your bag - Use the drawstrings on your sleeping bag to pull the hood tight around your face. Some have a strip of fabric around the back of your neck that prevents heat escaping from around your shoulders.

Don’t breathe into your sleeping bag - Breathing into your sleeping bag might seem like a good idea to warm things up but eventually all that moist air is going to make things damp. Keep your nose and mouth out of your sleeping bag to breathe.

More exercise – If you wake up cold in the night try a few sit ups to get the body warmed up again.

A snack – Again if you wake up cold during the night you can have a quick snack to get your metabolism going again.

Keep your tent ventilated - The heat from your body and moisture from your breath inside your tent at night can cause condensation and make everything in your tent slightly damp. Moisture and condensation will lead to colder temperatures inside your tent. It may sound counter-intuitive but you need to keep your tent ventilated at night to allow good airflow to prevent the build-up of condensation.

So there's some easy tips from us at Intents Outdoors on how to stay warm when trying to sleep out when camping in winter or when the nights get colder than you expected. Let us know if you've got any other good ideas to add to the list on how to keep warm at night. And yes, someone has already suggested 'working out' with a friend to generate some extra body heat.

Some people say camping is all about getting back to basics: living outdoors with nature, the clothes on your back, tents, sleeping bag, food, and not much else. For others camping is bringing every modern convenience that you have at home - air conditioners, full kitchens, refrigerators, furniture as well as the laptop and smartphones.  

A return to roots

A growing number of people have come to love a more minimal or ultralight approach to camping and hiking – or tramping as we call it in New Zealand. They carry just what is needed on their trips – only the bare essentials for resting, eating, hiking, navigating, and focus on the experience with nature.  

Far from being a whimsical trend, the minimalist mentality brings recreational camping closer to its historical roots. When Americans popularised recreational camping in the late 1800s, they did so to break away from urban comforts and follow in the footsteps of their ancestors who conquered and survived in the wild with very little equipment. Given that NZ is a country shaped by explorers, it makes sense for Kiwis to enjoy the same challenge and allure.

Why go ultralight in NZ?

The experience of making it through days and nights with only your wits and basic supplies may be minimalist camping’s ultimate reward. You’ll come out of a trip with a better sense of how to make do with the equipment you have, and a renewed awareness of what nature has to offer. 

But ultralight camping is not exclusively for adventurers who want to do as the pioneers did. Casual campers and families can also go minimal simply by reducing the gear they pack for hiking and camping trips. Packing lighter means you can travel faster and more comfortably. With less gear weighing you down, you can reduce fatigue and spend more time exploring and enjoying the environment.

This country overflows with majestic natural beauty. You’ll want all your energy to savour every inch of landscape, marvelling at vistas or gazing at the southern hemisphere’s stunning stars.

Caution: Safety first

There is an obvious flipside to minimalist camping - you’ll have limited supplies in the wild. This may not be much of a problem for overnight or car campers, who can easily restock food or medicine if something goes awry. But if you’re heading deep into the bush, you’ll have to think very carefully about what you are and aren’t bringing, as well as understanding the conditions where you’re camping.

Camping with no modern tools like stoves, headlamps, and GPS devices will no longer seem as romantic if conditions catch you off-guard. Safety is the first priority. Minimalist camping will hone your resourcefulness and survival skills – but you’d better make sure you’ve got the know-how to start with.

Easing the load

One of the most important decisions in going ultralight is choosing a lighter shelter – often a camper’s heaviest piece of equipment. New developments in tent materials such as silnylon and cuben fibre, and aluminium and carbon poles have resulted in production of much lighter, stronger tents and shelters. New designs are aimed at hikers and trampers looking to minimise weight without hindering performance and can weigh as little as one to two pounds (500g-1kg). Many ultralight tent and shelter designs incorporate the use of trekking poles to do away with the weight and bulk of traditional pole systems.

Be aware that most ultralight options are probably more suitable for 2-3 season camping and that as priorities are reducing weight and packed size some sacrifices on other comforts are made when compared to bigger, heavier tents.

Depending on your plans and preferences, some of these ultralight options might work for you:

• Double wall ultralight tents – double wall tents have a separate inner tent and outer fly and designed to protect users from condensation. They’re usually less than 3 pounds (1.5kg), are easy to set up, and protect you from bugs and the elements and have a vestibule for your gear but may be a bit heavier and bulkier than some of the other ultralight alternatives below. 

• Single wall ultralight tents and hybrids – a range of new pyramid designs and tarp tent hybrids seek to combine the best of a tent and tarp, most often using trekking poles slashing weight and packed size by having a single wall with floor and mesh to improve ventilation. Great for use as a 2 season option but remember with just one wall that any condensation will be directly inside the tent with you so will need to be well ventilated to reduce moisture build up in cool humid conditions.

• Tarps – Tarps best evoke camping like the old pioneers. Modern versions are lighter and waterproof, and require guy lines, stakes and trees or poles to set them up. There are flat tarps, cat cut tarps and tarps that can be configured into basic shelters. They’re light weight and compact, can be pitched in many ways and of course have great ventilation so few condensation problems. On the other hand they are more difficult to set up, and leave you more exposed to the ground, weather and insects than enclosed tents.

• Bivvy bags – These originated as basic sleeping bag covers for hikers and climbers. They have now developed into waterproof mini shelters with better ventilation, mesh, and even hoops in some to make the head area more comfortable and ‘roomier’. They are very light and packed volume is low, very easy to set up and only require ground space the size of your sleeping bag. The main disadvantages of bivvy bags are their very limited internal space and problems they can have with condensation in cool or wet weather. 

• Hammocks – backpacking hammocks are enclosed with mesh netting and are light weight. They’re great for use in forests and are hooked up between trees using a nylon sling so there’s no need to worry about poles or damp ground. Not suitable for terrain without trees and are usually used under a tarp.

Of course, there are other ways to lighten the load - using light weight sleeping gear or footwear, taking dehydrated food to avoid extra cookware, planning ahead to pinpoint fresh water sources on your route instead of bringing extra water … on and on the list can go. Ultimately, know that you don’t have to bring everything, just everything you need. 

For more info on which ultralight tent or shelter will suit you most on your next adventure email info@intentsoutdoors.co.nz for help with any questions you might have.

Sources:

Minimalist or Not, Camping Light Is Worth the Effort, GearPatrol.com

Ultralight backpacking basics, REI.com

8 tips for stress-free camping, TheArtofSimple.net

Besides considering size, weight, seasonality, and features of a tent, you should also check the tent’s waterproof rating whenever you’re at a tent sale. The fabric’s capacity to withstand everything from drizzles to downpours is essential for camping around NZ, where rain falls year-round and Mother Nature – while undeniably beautiful – can be rather unpredictable.

What are waterproof ratings?

Waterproof ratings are measured in millimetres (mm) and usually fall anywhere from 800mm to 10,000 mm. These figures indicate the amount of water pressure a fabric can withstand. That means a tent with a 2,000mm rating will endure a 2,000mm or two metre column of water bearing down on it before it starts to leak.

How are waterproof ratings determined?

To measure how waterproof a fabric is, tent manufacturers use a method called the Hydrostatic Head (HH) test. HH is the term for a material’s water resistance. They clamp sample material onto the bottom of a clear graded tube, then slowly fill the tube with water, waiting for at least three drops of water to finally seep through. The height of the water in millimetres at the point of leaking becomes the fabric’s waterproof rating. 

Protective coatings are applied to tent fabrics which close the gaps between threads, preventing water passing through the fabric and allowing water to bead and run off and maintain the quality of the material. Typically these coatings are polyurethane (PU) for polyester fabrics and silicone (Sil) for nylon fabrics. The application process, thickness and number of applied coatings are used to achieve the desired HH.

Is a tent with higher HH always better?

So it makes sense that higher HH ratings are better because they can withstand larger amounts of water pressure, right? That’s true, but also consider that an umbrella with a very low HH will still keep you perfectly dry. Tents are used for different purposes and exposed to various stresses including exposure to sunlight, rough winds and weather, handling, and abrasion from rough, damp ground. Higher HH fabrics are more rigid and heavier and may be unnecessary for the type of conditions you will be facing.

And it is important to remember that HH is only one factor in determining a tent’s overall ability to withstand water. A 10,000-mm tent can still leak if it is not stitched correctly, or the seams are not treated with heat taped seams (or applied sealant in the case of silnylon), or if the tent is poorly designed and water finds its way through places like zips or windows.

So which tent ratings are suitable for which conditions?

When all is said and done, there are general guidelines for picking the right water-resistant model at a tent sale. Usually tent floors have higher ratings than floors as they take the added stresses of campers above and constant contact with the ground below.

Consider the season you will be camping in and check local conditions where you will be heading out to see what the recommended HH ratings are best suited to that environment. In some countries two-to-three season tents typically have walls rated 1000 mm and floors of 1,500 mm but these may be inadequate in other climates.

In New Zealand, with downpours even in the height of summer 2 and 3 season tents should have fly waterproof ratings that exceed 1,500mm and floor ratings that run past 3,000mm which should withstand most winds and rain. In comparison, 3 and 4 season tents, which are suitable for camping in any month anywhere in NZ, can protect you from heavy rain and light to substantial snow and you should be looking at fly minimums of 3,000mm and 5,000-10,000mm on floors.

Having the right gear means you can focus on enjoying your adventure and not trying to stop that water dripping on your head. With equipment designed to keep you comfortable outdoors, the final question you can ask yourself is not so much which tent to buy – but instead, where are you headed next?

Email info@intentsoutdoors.co.nz for assistance.

Sources:

What is Hydrostatic Head? GetOutWiththeKids.co.uk

What Does Hydrostatic Head Mean? GearWeAre.com

Autumn is a great time to head outdoors in New Zealand

New Zealand is beautiful all year round but, with the changing of the seasons, autumn from March to May is a special time as the glorious gold and red hues spread across the land. Walking through forests and vineyards is a magical experience. Although cooler, the days are often sunny without the excessive summer heat making autumn a great time for many to take part in their favorite outdoor activities.

Things to do and places to be

Autumn brings more stable weather and is a great time to get outdoors and try your hand at cycling through the countryside or hiking the great walks. Trout fishing is a popular pastime as the spawning season begins and trout make their way up the rivers. Whale watching comes alive as greater numbers of migrating whales pass through New Zealand waters making their way north to escape the cold of the Antarctic.

Some spectacular scenery is on show in the autumn months, especially in places like the North Island’s Hawkes Bay and the South Island’s Central Otago. And don’t forget that these two regions are producers of some of New Zealand’s world famous Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir wines so there’s an added incentive to hit the vineyard trails. Relax and take in the views while enjoying the premium wines and hospitality offered by some fantastic vineyards.

Camping in Autumn  

With the more settled weather when it comes to things to do in autumn camping is up there. One of the best things about this time of year is that there are fewer tourists at campgrounds and out hiking so it’s a perfect time to do some camping in a quieter more relaxed setting without the large crowds everywhere. As well as fewer people there are also fewer mosquitoes and sandflies making the evenings sitting around a cosy campfire much more pleasant. And campsite costs are also lower at this time when compared to the peak summer season.

What to Pack

Camping in cooler weather requires more careful thought and planning if you want to be comfortable. To stay warm, make sure that you have a suitable camping gear. Good three or four season tents for sale in NZ are recommended. Designed to be lightweight, compact and durable, they’re constructed from materials that can withstand the weather. You’ll also need more protection to maintain warmth coupled with greater ventilation options to prevent condensation build up on cool nights.

Sleeping pads, airbeds or air pads are also essential gear if you’re camping during autumn. These pads are insulated underneath to heat up the sleeping bag to keep you warm throughout the night. Ensure that you have good quality sleeping bags with comfort ratings that are sleeping bags are able to handle the lower temperatures you’ll be camping in. 

With the shorter days camping lanterns, flashlights (torches) or headlamps will make life easier when the sun goes down. And of course, make sure that you have adequate warm clothing like thermals, fleece and down jackets to match the cool weather conditions. 

With a little preparation, camping in cooler autumn weather can be a great opportunity to see New Zealand under a different light. Be sure to check out local camping specialists for must-have supplies before you go.

Sources:

5 Places to Visit in the Autumn in New Zealand, BackpackerGuide.nz

7 Tips to Survive Cold-Weather Camping, PopularMechanics.com