Late August, we loaded up the bikes, stuffed all our gear wherever it would fit, and set off for something brand new – our first-ever bikepacking mission. The plan? Elfin Lakes, the classic alpine spot just outside Squamish. We wanted a route that’d push us but not absolutely destroy us. Turns out this trip was exactly that – a mix of grind, killer views, and one hell of a reward at the end.
Words & images by Lenka Skořepová | @lenda_skorepova
The ride up to Elfin Lakes
The climb to the campground is roughly 10 km with about 700 m of elevation. Most of it’s on a gravel forest road – rideable for the most part, but every now and then you hit chunky rocks that force you off the bike and into push mode. About halfway up there’s a little shelter where you can chill, smash a snack, or hide from the sun before tackling the second half of the climb. And man… that heat. It was pushing 35°C when we went, so we spent a good chunk of the ride just crawling uphill and trying not to melt. Around the 7 km mark the forest finally opened up and we got our first proper views. And the timing? Absolutely spot-on. The golden hour had just kicked in, and the ridgelines were glowing warm orange. Big motivation boost right there.
Arriving at Elfin Lakes
We rolled into camp just as the sun dipped – and it was packed. Luckily, we snagged a sweet little spot on the edge. The evening was warm, the Perseids were still going, and honestly, we couldn’t have picked a better night to test out our new Hopper Pro 2 tent. After that climb, setting it up was stupidly quick – lightweight gear is a blessing when your legs feel like noodles. And once it was up, we could finally kick back and enjoy the mountains around us. Just a heads-up if you’re planning the trip: camping at Elfin Lakes is reservation-only and the sites get snapped up super-fast, especially on summer weekends. It’s about $10 CAD per person per night, and you book through BC Parks. Facilities? Toilets – yep. A big, shared shelter for cooking or hiding from rubbish weather – also yes. And of course, the two iconic lakes: one for drinking water, one for swimming. Perfect combo. (Though honestly, drinking the lake water tastes… questionable. Fair warning.)
Hiking up to the Gargoyles
Next morning we ditched the bikes and chucked on our hiking boots. The Gargoyles track is around 5 km return with over 400 m of gain – short, steep, and seriously rewarding. The trail winds through forest, hits a rocky section, and then pops out onto the ridgelines. We even spotted a couple of marmots sunbathing on the rocks. At the top you get this massive panorama over Garibaldi Provincial Park – turquoise lakes below and Mt. Garibaldi towering in the back. Worth every single sweaty step.
Cooling off + the ride back
By the afternoon the sun was smashing down again, so the first thing we did back at camp was jump straight into the swimming lake. Instant reset. After a quick feed, we packed up, loaded the bikes, and pointed ourselves downhill. BUT—don’t forget: from the campground you’ve got a solid climb just to get back onto the ridge. In that heat it was rough, but hikers kept cheering us on with “Good job, guys!” which genuinely helped. Elfin Lakes is mainly a tramping spot, so we passed heaps of hikers but were stoked to see a few other bikepackers out there too. Then came the best bit: 10 km of gravel descent with huge mountain views all the way back to the car. And then… the bad surprise. Someone had broken into our car overnight. Everything we’d left inside for future trips – gone. Plus, all the gear I had in the car after picking Ondra up from a helibiking mission. Even his flat GoPro Hero 10 disappeared.
They also took our house keys and car insurance papers, which meant they had our address. Terrifying moment, honestly. We rushed home thinking they might’ve hit our place too – luckily, they didn’t. The smashed window, though? Not ideal. Police didn’t come out – they usually don’t for break-ins like this – so we just filed the report and moved on to the insurance claim. Oh, and while we were collecting broken glass from the car… a bear wandered past. Because of course.
Final thoughts
For a first bikepacking trip, this one was an absolute banger. Elfin Lakes gave us the perfect mix of challenge and enjoyment. And the Hopper Pro 2 proved itself as the ideal adventure buddy – light on the climb, comfy at night, and solid even when the temps stay warm. If you’re hunting for a bikepacking route or overnight mission around Squamish, chuck Elfin Lakes on your list. Just be ready for a decent climb, carry plenty of water, and make sure you look up at night – the sky up there can be unreal.
