News — tents nz

Make your tent last longer with a bit of proper care and a few good habits. Tents are are made for the outdoors and get their fair share of dirt and exposure to the elements. Give them some love to get the best out of them. Here are some easy ways to extend the life and performance of your tent. 

Pitching

• For new tents, read the tent instructions carefully. Practice setting it up at home before your trip to familiarise yourself with the tent and know how to get the best out of it. Make sure you’ve got everything you need.
• Pick a good site to pitch your tent, not exposed to potential dangers like damaging winds or flooding.
• Clear the ground of any stones, sticks or anything that may puncture or tear the floor of your tent. You could also consider using a footprint to protect the tent floor.
• After pitching your tent check that everything is set up properly - fly taut, guy ropes and stakes secure.

Zippers

• Be careful with zippers. Treat them gently. If stuck, it’s probably a piece of fabric or thread caught in the zipper that can be carefully removed. Never force them - broken zippers are a real pain.
• If a tent fly is set too tight, zippers can be under real strain and zipping them back up can be almost impossible. Instead of forcing them, adjust tent stakes to loosen the fly a little and make zippers easier to close.
• Dry lubricants or wax are available for ‘sticky’ zippers.

Poles

• Most poles are shock corded so should fit into place easily. Don’t fool around with poles by whipping them around. This can cause small cracks or fractures unnoticeable at the time, but ending in failure when pressure is exerted in setting up or later in winds.
• End tips of aluminium and fibreglass pole sections are most easily damaged when not properly inserted into connecting hubs and ferrules. Connect the poles one section at time and make sure ends of the individual pole sections are fully inserted into hubs or metal ferrules before exerting pressure and bending the whole pole into place.
• Gently push shock corded tent poles through fabric pole sleeves when setting up or taking down a tent. Pulling poles will disconnect them. Tent fabric can get pinched between pole sections when reconnecting them inside the sleeves.
• Don’t force poles through tent sleeves. Check out why they’re stuck rather than forcing them through and possible tearing the tent fabric (speaking from experience).
• When disconnecting and packing up poles start in the middle so there is even tension along the shock cord.
• If aluminium poles are exposed to salt water, rinse them to prevent any possible corrosion.

Sun and heat

• Sunlight and UV rays are the ‘silent killer’ that will damage your tent fly – especially polyester and nylon fabrics. If you’re not using the tent, take it down. Don’t leave it up for extended periods in the sun as UV rays will degrade the fabric leaving it brittle and paper-like.
• Consider applying UV treatments to protect your tent depending on the fabric used.
• Stay away from open wood fires and burning embers. Some campers use small controlled cooking stoves in vestibules (subject to manufacturer recommendations) but remember that some tent fabrics can melt or, if not fire resistant, be flammable.

Packing up

• Pack your tent dry. If it’s raining, dry it out when you get home.
• Condensation can occur even on fine days, so remember that the underside of the fly or floor may be damp. For smaller tents before packing consider removing the fly to dry it out, or for freestanding tents turning them upside down to dry out tent floors.
• Clean any mud of pole ends and stakes before packing.
• Fold the tent fly into a rectangular shape about the width of the carry bag. Place the pole and stake bags on the fly, roll the fly around the poles and place in the bag.

Cleaning

• When out camping leave muddy, dirty boots and shoes outside the tent to minimise dirt inside. For food spills, carefully wipe off any spills as they happen.
• When you get back home, for small spots of dirt try wiping it off with a damp cloth, or using a sponge and water to carefully remove the dirt.
• If you got caught out in a mud bath try using the garden hose to spray off as much mud as possible.
• For heavier duty cleaning, pitch the tent at home and use warm water and a non-detergent soap (Do not use detergents, bleaches, dishwashing liquids etc. as these damage or remove the coatings). Gently wash off the dirt, then rinse and leave pitched to dry before packing away.
• Do not throw you tent into the washing machine – it will destroy your tent.

Storage

• Make sure that the tent is dry and clean before packing it away. When you get home from a trip hang up your tent in the garage or shaded spot to air and dry it out completely. Any moisture will lead to mildew and mould which smells bad and can stain and weaken the fabric and waterproof coatings.
• Store your tent in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Storing in damp conditions will lead to mould. Exposure to direct sunlight will lead to the breakdown and weakening of the fabric and coatings.
• Store it in an oversized breathable bag. Don’t store it tightly rolled and compressed in the tent carry bag.
• Roll the tent fly rather than fold it. This prevents permanent creases and ‘cracks’ forming in the fabric and coatings.

 At Intents Outdoors we believe you should protect your investment in your tent. Keep your tent clean and dry, out of the sun and take care when setting up and you’ll have a happy tent. And that goes a long way to making a happy camper.  

Tents specifications and coatings can be confusing. What is Denier, Thread count and Hydrostatic Head? Understanding tent specifications and terms will help you choose the best tent for your needs.

When looking at tents for sale reputable brands and retailers should provide tent fabric specs so you can work out a tent’s performance capabilities and suitability to handle different conditions. Here's an introduction to different tent fabric specifications. For more on fabrics check out fabric pros and cons. 

What is Denier?

Denier (D) is the unit measuring the weight and thickness of the individual threads used in the fabric. Fabric with a higher Denier will be thicker, stronger and more durable than the same fabric with a lower Denier – 40D Nylon will be stronger than 15D Nylon and 150D Polyester stronger than 75D Polyester. Remember that different fabrics have different strengths. Lower Denier is common in ultralight nylon tents and tarps where low weight is paramount. Polyester camping tents typically have higher 68D, 75D, 150D fabrics, while for camping and event shelters something around 150D would be recommended to deal with the greater stresses and longer exposure to the sun and elements.

What is Thread count?

The thread count (T) is the number of threads used horizontally and vertically per square inch of fabric ... 210T means a total of 210 threads. A higher thread count represents a greater density and tighter weave in the fabric. For this reason you will often find lower Denier fabrics (with a ‘thinner’ thread) have a higher thread count.

What is Ripstop?

Ripstop tent fabrics are those with a special reinforcement to increase resistance to tearing and ripping. When weaving, a stronger thread is used at regular intervals to form a crosshatching, grid pattern visible in the fabric. This improves strength of the fabric and makes any tears or holes less likely to spread and become bigger.

What is gsm?

GSM (grams per square meter), refers to the weight in grams of one square meter of raw woven canvas or polycotton canvas. (Also still measured in ounces per square yard as well.) A higher gsm means a higher fabric weight and thickness. Most tents range from around 280gsm to 380gsm with more modern polycotton canvas closer to the lower end.

What are fabric coatings?

Chemical coatings are applied to tent fabrics to increase their performance, especially resistance to water. 

What is a silicone coating? What is silnylon?

A silicone coating is usually applied to nylon, hence silnylon. The coating ‘permeates’ the nylon fabric creating a stronger silicon ‘reinforced’, waterproof nylon fabric with better stretch and tear strength. Silicone repels water and so it’s easy to shake off excess water and dries quickly. On the down side silicone coatings are more expensive, stop ‘breathing’ in the fabric which may lead to greater condensation, and result in a very slick and slippery surface meaning that tent seams cannot be taped - Silnylon seams require manual application of a liquid seam sealant. And note that brand logos cannot be printed onto silicone coatings. 

What is a Polyurethane (PU) coating?

Polyurethane or PU coatings applied to polyester and nylon fabrics are more like a layer that sticks to the surface of the tent fabric. It creates a waterproof barrier, is more affordable, has greater breathability than silicone and has a surface which allows the application of tape on tent seams. But it doesn’t reinforce a fabric’s strength in the same way as silicone, requires some care to be kept clean and dry for storage, and will affected by UV exposure and break down over time. Branding can be printed directly onto PU coatings.

What is a SIL/PU coating?

Some tent fabrics have a silicone coating on the outer side and PU coating on the inner side as a compromise, balancing the benefits of both coatings and allowing tape to be applied to seams making tents ‘ready to go’ for end users. Branding will be printed on the underside of the fabric but not on the outer side.

Hydrostatic Head (HH), water column or ‘waterproof’ ratings (measured in mm)

Polyester and nylon fabrics are not waterproof and so silicone or PU coatings are applied to give waterproof properties. The amount of water that they can ‘hold out’ is tested using a high column of water which is measured in mm. Ratings range from 800mm up to a max of 10,000mm with ratings of 1500mm and higher generally considered ‘waterproof’. See our article on how to choose a waterproof tent for a better explanation of waterproof tents and ratings. DCF (Cuben fiber) is waterproof and canvas has a natural waterproof performance so these typically do not have mm ratings.

What other fabric coatings are there?

A number of other coatings can be applied to tent fabrics to improve UV resistance, water resistance (allowing water to bead and roll off), rot and mildew resistance and to add fire retardant properties to fabrics.

What is Oxford?

Oxford is a different type of weave which provides better strength and durability than standard plain weaves. Often used for heavier duty fabrics.

What to look for in your next tent fabric specs?

Generally, the higher the denier count the stronger and heavier the fabric will be, and the higher the mm rating the more ‘waterproof’ it will be. Have a look at the following ...

1. 75D 185T Polyester PU1000mm – a standard polyester tent fabric suitable for camping tents but has a lower waterproof rating of 1000mm suitable for light rain only so probably more suitable for casual camping in fairly good conditions.
2. 20D 330T Ripstop Nylon Sil/PU 3000mm – a light 20 Denier nylon fabric suitable for ultralight tents, ripstop so has better tear resistance, silicone coating topside and polyurethane coating underside so can have taped seams, good waterproof rating at 3000mm should be able to deal with most rain.
3. 380gsm Polycotton Ripstop – a heavier, durable modified polyester and canvas blend suitable for swags, and family cabin tents reinforced with Ripstop ‘grid’ threads, it's canvas so has natural waterproof properties
4. 150D Oxford Polyester PU 3000mm UV – a heavier, thicker polyester with a stronger weave, more suitable to event shelters and tent floors, waterproof with 3000mm HH rating and coated for greater resistance to UV.

As well as identifying your preferred tent design, you’ll need a tent fabric with the right balance of strength, durability, waterproofness, weight and budget to meet your needs. Knowing more about tent specifications will help you get the right tent. At Intents Outdoors we put careful consideration into these factors to create tents fit for purpose with the right combination of specs and features at affordable price points.

Here’s a checklist of things to consider when looking at ultralight tents for sale. With new designs, fabrics and materials tents are becoming lighter and more specialised. Ultralight tents have very low weights and small packed sizes, great for hikers, trampers, backpackers, bikepackers and minimalists who are mobile and like to go light! But remember that with these priorities, they differ from heavier camping tents and ultralights may not be suitable for everyone. Make sure know what is important to you and what you will be using your tent for.

1. What does it weigh?

Weight is one of the key things people look at in their search for an ultralight tent. Generally, a tent weighing less than 1.5kg is considered ultralight and some go lower than 500g. Know that stated weights are often ‘trail’ or ‘minimum’ weights which typically only include the tent and poles. ‘Packed’ weights include tent, poles, stakes, rope, carry bag. Think about how much you feel comfortable carrying.

2. What is the packed size?

A small packed size is great when you’re hiking for days on end. Check out a tent’s packed dimensions for something that you’re happy with, can be compressed and packs down to easily fit into your pack. 

3. What’s the internal size?

To achieve low weight and packed size, the interior size and space in ultralight tents can be tight. Most ultralight tents are designed for 1 or 2 person capacity. Check that the measurements work for your needs. Consider your height, size and if you are a restless sleeper who rolls around a lot. Is there enough head room to sit up or get changed? Ideally, you don’t want to be touching any walls or the ceiling. Apart from sleeping, will you be spending long periods of time in your tent?

4. Is it a multi pitch tent? How is it pitched?

Some ultralight tents can be set up in a variety of ways - fly only, fly and footprint, inner only, fly with inner – making them adaptable to different conditions. For some trips just a fly and floor might be all you need so consider the options and what will be useful. And check out how the tent is pitched. Is it easy to pitch? And if it’s in the dark or raining? Is it free standing or must be staked out? If it must be staked out to stand it may take a little practice to get it set up correctly.  

5. What kind of poles are used?

Some tents come with all the poles needed to pitch the tent. To reduce weight many ultralight tents require the use of adjustable trekking poles - or can be set up with an optional designated pole. Most poles are aluminium but lighter carbon poles are also available.

6. Is it a single wall or double wall tent?

Ultralight tent designs look for ways to minimise weight and so the lightest tents often only have one wall. But consider that single wall tents use one layer of fabric and any condensation that may occur will then be sitting ‘inside’ the tent (see next question). Double wall tents with an outer fly and an inner mesh tent with floor are generally drier with more ventilation and the inner acting as a second barrier.    

7. Is it well ventilated and does it handle condensation?

Single wall tents often have less mesh and ventilation options, and are great in dry warm conditions. In cold, humid conditions condensation can occur in any tent and good ventilation is key to preventing its build-up. Remember in single wall tents that any condensation forming on the underside of the fly is directly inside the tent. Be aware of this and make sure that there are good options for ventilation and airflow and be prepared to use them in cold, still, humid weather. A double wall tent with an outer fly and mesh wall inner will generally allow for better airflow and management of condensation.

8. Is it waterproof and are the seams sealed?

Check that the fly and floor are waterproof. Generally anything rated above 1500mm is waterproof but you will probably want higher ratings for the floor. Check how many seasons the tent is rated for – most ultralights are rated 2 to 3 seasons. Make sure that the tent will provide adequate protection from the elements when you need it.

Some ultralight tents are made using silnylon (nylon with silicone coatings) which has a very ‘slippery’ surface that will not hold taped seams. A seam sealant must be manually applied by hand (yours probably) to ensure that the seams are waterproof. Nylon and polyester seams with PU coatings can be taped. Dyneema (cuben fibre) does not require seam sealing.

9. Is it durable?

To reduce weight, ultralight tents are made using lighter weight, thinner fabrics and materials that may not be as durable and hardy as heavier camping tents. But with proper care and use they can be long lasting. If you’re hard on your gear then you might be better off looking at something a little heavier.

10. What kind of fabric is it made from?

Dyneema (cuben fibre) is very light and extremely strong but also extremely expensive. Nylon is a great lightweight fabric, not too expensive but has pros and cons. Polyester is affordable but heavier so not often found in ultralight tents. Check out our info on tent fabrics.

11. Does it have a footprint?

Sharp stick and stones can puncture floors. Ultralight tent floors are made of lighter fabrics so you may want to use a footprint that will offer more protection and prolong the life of your tent. Footprints are also handy for use with the outer fly only.

12. What about overall design?

Check that the design of the tent suits your needs and can do the job you need it to do. Does the tent allow for easy access? For 2 person tents, 2 doors make life much easier when getting in and out. Also see that the vestibules are big enough for your gear. Are there extras like storage pockets, ceiling hooks, etc. Are stakes and rope included and if so are they ok for the job? You may want to change them out for gear that you prefer.

13. How much does it cost?

Ultralight tents can vary enormously in price with high end Dyneema ultralights retailing for around NZ$1000. But you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a good ultralight tent … just make sure that the design, quality of materials and work, and durability of the tent is suitable for your needs. 

14. Is an ultralight tent right for me?

Remember that it’s important to have a reliable tent that does what it should and not put you in danger. What are the priorities for you and your next adventure? Consider weight, comfort, protection, durability, cost and if an ultralight tent, while looking good on paper, is really suitable. But also know that if you’re looking for the convenience and freedom of low weight and can handle some of the sacrifices, then an ultralight tent could be the perfect tent for your next adventure.

If you have any questions about ultralight tents don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at Intents Outdoors.

Some people say camping is all about getting back to basics: living outdoors with nature, the clothes on your back, tents, sleeping bag, food, and not much else. For others camping is bringing every modern convenience that you have at home - air conditioners, full kitchens, refrigerators, furniture as well as the laptop and smartphones.  

A return to roots

A growing number of people have come to love a more minimal or ultralight approach to camping and hiking – or tramping as we call it in New Zealand. They carry just what is needed on their trips – only the bare essentials for resting, eating, hiking, navigating, and focus on the experience with nature.  

Far from being a whimsical trend, the minimalist mentality brings recreational camping closer to its historical roots. When Americans popularised recreational camping in the late 1800s, they did so to break away from urban comforts and follow in the footsteps of their ancestors who conquered and survived in the wild with very little equipment. Given that NZ is a country shaped by explorers, it makes sense for Kiwis to enjoy the same challenge and allure.

Why go ultralight in NZ?

The experience of making it through days and nights with only your wits and basic supplies may be minimalist camping’s ultimate reward. You’ll come out of a trip with a better sense of how to make do with the equipment you have, and a renewed awareness of what nature has to offer. 

But ultralight camping is not exclusively for adventurers who want to do as the pioneers did. Casual campers and families can also go minimal simply by reducing the gear they pack for hiking and camping trips. Packing lighter means you can travel faster and more comfortably. With less gear weighing you down, you can reduce fatigue and spend more time exploring and enjoying the environment.

This country overflows with majestic natural beauty. You’ll want all your energy to savour every inch of landscape, marvelling at vistas or gazing at the southern hemisphere’s stunning stars.

Caution: Safety first

There is an obvious flipside to minimalist camping - you’ll have limited supplies in the wild. This may not be much of a problem for overnight or car campers, who can easily restock food or medicine if something goes awry. But if you’re heading deep into the bush, you’ll have to think very carefully about what you are and aren’t bringing, as well as understanding the conditions where you’re camping.

Camping with no modern tools like stoves, headlamps, and GPS devices will no longer seem as romantic if conditions catch you off-guard. Safety is the first priority. Minimalist camping will hone your resourcefulness and survival skills – but you’d better make sure you’ve got the know-how to start with.

Easing the load

One of the most important decisions in going ultralight is choosing a lighter shelter – often a camper’s heaviest piece of equipment. New developments in tent materials such as silnylon and cuben fibre, and aluminium and carbon poles have resulted in production of much lighter, stronger tents and shelters. New designs are aimed at hikers and trampers looking to minimise weight without hindering performance and can weigh as little as one to two pounds (500g-1kg). Many ultralight tent and shelter designs incorporate the use of trekking poles to do away with the weight and bulk of traditional pole systems.

Be aware that most ultralight options are probably more suitable for 2-3 season camping and that as priorities are reducing weight and packed size some sacrifices on other comforts are made when compared to bigger, heavier tents.

Depending on your plans and preferences, some of these ultralight options might work for you:

• Double wall ultralight tents – double wall tents have a separate inner tent and outer fly and designed to protect users from condensation. They’re usually less than 3 pounds (1.5kg), are easy to set up, and protect you from bugs and the elements and have a vestibule for your gear but may be a bit heavier and bulkier than some of the other ultralight alternatives below. 

• Single wall ultralight tents and hybrids – a range of new pyramid designs and tarp tent hybrids seek to combine the best of a tent and tarp, most often using trekking poles slashing weight and packed size by having a single wall with floor and mesh to improve ventilation. Great for use as a 2 season option but remember with just one wall that any condensation will be directly inside the tent with you so will need to be well ventilated to reduce moisture build up in cool humid conditions.

• Tarps – Tarps best evoke camping like the old pioneers. Modern versions are lighter and waterproof, and require guy lines, stakes and trees or poles to set them up. There are flat tarps, cat cut tarps and tarps that can be configured into basic shelters. They’re light weight and compact, can be pitched in many ways and of course have great ventilation so few condensation problems. On the other hand they are more difficult to set up, and leave you more exposed to the ground, weather and insects than enclosed tents.

• Bivvy bags – These originated as basic sleeping bag covers for hikers and climbers. They have now developed into waterproof mini shelters with better ventilation, mesh, and even hoops in some to make the head area more comfortable and ‘roomier’. They are very light and packed volume is low, very easy to set up and only require ground space the size of your sleeping bag. The main disadvantages of bivvy bags are their very limited internal space and problems they can have with condensation in cool or wet weather. 

• Hammocks – backpacking hammocks are enclosed with mesh netting and are light weight. They’re great for use in forests and are hooked up between trees using a nylon sling so there’s no need to worry about poles or damp ground. Not suitable for terrain without trees and are usually used under a tarp.

Of course, there are other ways to lighten the load - using light weight sleeping gear or footwear, taking dehydrated food to avoid extra cookware, planning ahead to pinpoint fresh water sources on your route instead of bringing extra water … on and on the list can go. Ultimately, know that you don’t have to bring everything, just everything you need. 

For more info on which ultralight tent or shelter will suit you most on your next adventure email info@intentsoutdoors.co.nz for help with any questions you might have.

Sources:

Minimalist or Not, Camping Light Is Worth the Effort, GearPatrol.com

Ultralight backpacking basics, REI.com

8 tips for stress-free camping, TheArtofSimple.net